It all started Monday while me and a few buddies were out at our favorite surf spot. We were all hanging in the same general area waiting for the next set of waves to arrive. If a really big set comes, the waves break before, or right as they reach us. This is exactly what happened. A large set of four waves came in and we all got smashed around by them, but made it out alright, like usual. I was a bit winded because you spend sometimes five seconds or more underwater each wave and they come one right after another. After the four waves passed, we didn’t have more than ten seconds of rest before another big set started coming in.
Burritos, I said.
Good, he said with a big grin as he walked off.
(Note: The four pictures in sequence above are from earlier this year, and are of me padding up and over a 12 ft wave in the exact spot as I got the concussion this week. In the last picture, where the wave hits the water, I was just a few feet in front of where the lip when it hit. I had to get passed two of these waves after the concussion. This last picture I hope gives a glimpse of why I surf. It’s one of the most enjoyable recreational activities I’ve ever had the privilege to experience.)